Category: Travel

The (British) Open

July 22, 2018

20180722_085130.jpgAfter the Highland Games, it was off to Carnoustie for the 147th Open.  We call it the British Open.  Since this was the first major golf tournament, here it is simply referred to as the Open.  For the next day and half, we would be in Carnoustie, along the shores of the North Sea, 12 miles as the crow flies from St. Andrews, yet an hour drive away.  Attending the Open was a pure Scottish experience.

  1.  Carnoustie is such a quaint town  We walked from the campground where we were staying to the golf course.  We were near the entrance when Jen suddenly stopped dead in her tracks.  “There’s Nick Faldo!” Yes it was.  The six time major champion from South Africa was strolling down the street with a few other people.   He saw our awe struck gazes and met it with a “please don’t interrupt me” look.  We didn’t and strolled on by, taking in just how tall and broad shouldered he is in real life.
  2. We walked in an immediately grabbed seats by the 18th green at the same time Phil Michelson was strolling up the fairway.   We noticed that people did not bring tons of food and drinks into the stands.  No one was blistering drunk.  Well at least not yet.20180721_191112.jpg20180722_075026.jpg
  3. When we left Saturday’s day of play, we walked into town to grab a bite to eat at a little French bistro.  One woman was seating people, taking orders, delivering food and checking people out.  One person was cooking.  We discovered this was a theme at restaurants in Scotland.  They hustle on what we would consider a short staff.
  4. The Open is free for anyone under 16.  The campground was free for anyone under 25.  So there were a lot of young men who had a few beers.  And here’s where saw a significant different between Scottish drunks and American drunks.  In less than an hour, we saw one man just haul off and punch another man right in the jewels.  The other man, bent over, laughed it off.   In another group of men, one guy full leg kicked another in the hamstring.  After the kick recipient stumbled, and grabbed his leg in agony, he rattled off a little insult… but all in good fun.  Finally, we witnessed one guy stick his finger up his friend’s bum for a solid 10 paces or so.  The friend didn’t flinch.
  5. So the campground touted itself as an economical way to goto the Open.  They pitched tents and air mattresses.  Only in Scotland, their version of an air mattress is nothing more than a camping pad.  Uh oh.
  6. Jen had never been camping but was willing to give it a go.  She hates cold and rainy weather which was my biggest fear camping within a stone’s throw of the North Sea.  So for weeks I prayed for warm dry weather.  Boy, prayer’s answers.  So much so that the talk of the entire Open was how dry and hard the course was for lack of rain.  So if there was one saving grace of having to sleep on the ground, was that at least it was warm and dry.IMG_5156
  7. We were supposed to camp 2 nights.  We only camped 1.
  8. Championship Sunday was one of the most enjoyable sporting events I have ever been to.  Because we did not sleep well, we were up early and were the 1st ones to hit the 2nd oldest golf shop in the world.20180722_073737.jpg
  9. We got to the course and toured the spectator village.  We were able to get a free 1/2 hour golf lesson by a PGA Pro. We had a pork roll sandwich for breakfast. All food there was locally sourced and totally reasonably priced.  We could get 2 sandwiches, a bag of “crisps” and 2 drinks for 15 pounds which is $19.95.  After eating, we walked the entire course and basically kept pace with Gary Woodward playing.
  10. So the Scots like ice cream.  Everywhere we looked there is an ice cream vendor. So I gave in and ordered a scoop of vanilla with flake.  Flake is a  Cadbury candy bar which is just a light chocolate stick.  flake
  11. We then got seats near the top corner of the grandstand on 16.  From there, we could watch 16 but also watch the tee offs on 1, 17 and 18.  16 was second toughest hole (after 17) and not a single golfer birdied it on Sunday.  We ended up sitting amongst a group of Australian tourists who were watching a live feed of the tournament.  There would be shouts of “Tiger birdied 14!”  Or “Spieth dropped a shot!”  IMG_5158
  12. We then were able to watch the trophy presentation to the Champion Golfer of the Year, Francesco Molinari. 

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Castles and Highlands

July 22, 2018

After Dundee, we were off to Inverness.  Specifically, Tulloch Castle.  The drive was supposed to be under three hours, but it took much longer.  We had to take a detour to the Inverness Airport to add Jen as a driver at Hertz.

  1.  The Castle was more of a country estate.  So it was a bit disappointing that the Visit Scotland website listed this as a castle.  20180723_183144
  2. The Castle was built in the 12th century, but much of it has been destroyed over the years.
  3. Before dinner, I took a walk in the countryside and enjoyed the bleating sheep in the fields.  20180723_180916
  4. At 9 pm there was a ghost tour.  It began at 9:30 because the tour guide was also the host and waiter at the bar.
  5. We were led into the dungeon which has survived since it was built in 1126.  20180723_214805
  6. Jen had some true Scotch at the bar.   Her opinion… meh.
  7. We cannot find a laundry-mat to wash clothes.  We are running out of clean clothes.
  8. According to some locals, they used to see snow quite frequently but it has been very mild the past several years.  They attribute it to climate change.
  9. The ghost stories were so so.  Of course, it just so happened that a the gregarious group of guests were living in the most haunted rooms of the hotel.   Fortunately, I was not. However, we were all warned that at times a ringing bell can be heard. I heard it.  It was the desk bell.
  10. The Castle served as a hospital for British soldiers during WWII.  The ballroom that part of the tour was the operating ward.  20180723_221749

Dundee, a surprising city

July 22, 2018

We were to camp 2 nights in Carnoustie, but one night of lying on the ground with drunken Scots singing into the wee hours, we opted to find a room.  We lucked out and found a room in Dundee which is about 11 miles from Carnoustie.  After the tournament, we drove into Dundee and checked in.

  1.  It was a bit late and we were hungry.  The only place that was open and nearby was a Mexican restaurant.  We served Mexican by a man from Nepal in Scotland.  Honestly, I was so tired I don’t remember what I ate, I just know I was grateful for food and super great service.
  2. Dundee is not on list of places to see or go.  So it was the most authentic town we visited.  It still had buildings that were incredibly old, but they also had shops and office buildings and we were able to get a peek of typical Scottish life.  20180723_110744.jpg
  3. The videogame Grand Theft Auto was developed in Dundee.
  4. So, I’ve been putting change in my bag and in my pockets.  Their pound  which would be equivalent to our dollar, is given as a coin.  So I realized I had several dozen pounds weighing me down.
  5. We discovered an outdoor store, “Blacks” which we found to have quality gear at reasonable prices.
  6. There are signs everywhere for everything.  20180721_203108.jpg
  7. We had a great breakfast in a little coffee shop.  I had coffee and a danish and Jen had some toast.
  8. We spent longer that I had expected in Dundee exploring the shops.
  9. Both Jen and I forgot to pack face cream.  Jen said that we should stop by a store and try a sample.  Ok. So I’ve never done this before and when we went in the Body Shop, I tried a sample.  I didn’t want to look as though I kept hitting the bottle, so I made sure I had enough.  Well, a little went a long way.  I was smothered in face cream to the point that it looked like I had zinc on my face.  Jen was mortified. I simply giggled.

 

A Wee Bit of the Highland Games

July 21, 2018

We travel to see different places and experience different sporting events.  Summers in Scotland feature Highland Games.  Originally, Highland Games were actually military exercises.  Now, the Highland Games are community type festivals to celebrate Scottish heritage and competition.

  1.  We headed toward Lochearnhead for their Highland Games.  The games were held in an open field that must also double as a cow pasture as there were warnings for E.coli.
  2. There were a few tents set up like you would find at an arts festival here.  We spoke with several of the locals.  When they found out we were from the U.S., they felt very free to voice their displeasure about out President.  They do not hold back.
  3. We really enjoyed seeing the pagentry of the “clans.”  Three clans put on this Highland Games and the ceremonies are opened by the entire clans walking in behind a band of bagpipes.20180721_131225.jpg
  4. There are various events throughout the day, some of which are open to anyone.  Naturally, Jen wanted to participate in the 100 yard dash.
  5. Several of the locals were warming up and prepared to run. Then, over the loudspeaker they invited anyone to join.  Before Jen knew it, the gun was shot and the runners were off.  Jen, being the kindhearted soul that she is, was going to run in with the children and a man with down syndrome.  Only, they are Scottish and ran right past her.
  6. The locals sitting around us were cheering for Jen and one exclaimed, “She is one of us now!”
  7. All of the men competed in their kilts.  Each family has a specific tartan, or plaid design, for their kilts.20180721_123721.jpg
  8. These games were held in a rural, hilly area of Southwest Scotland.  I learned that the roads are very narrow and drivers still take hairpin turns at 50 mph.  Needless to say, it was a bit tough driving on the wrong side of the road here.
  9. For some reason there was a bird sanctuary with a tent.  So I held this owl.20180721_111747.jpg
  10. And yes, I used the handwash provided.

Ediburgh or Edinboro?

July 20, 2018

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After St. Andrews, we drove down to Edinburgh.  Although numerous people have referred to it to Edinboro. So I don’t know.  But what I do know, is that the city has some amazing history.

  1.  The skyline is dominated by Edinburgh Castle.  It’s pretty awesome in size.  We stayed right behind the castle, across the street on the Royal Mile.
  2. Oddly enough, they built a stadium directly behind the castle.  They did nothing to try and make it blend it in.  A concert was going on so the air was filled with live music.
  3. So it is a bit touristy.  I went into a kilt shop and was asked what I was interested in by a Middle Eastern man.
  4. Obligatory photo with a bag piper.20180720_204014.jpg
  5. We were exhausted and slept soundly.  The next morning, Jen wanted to hike up to Arthur’s Seat.  It’s a park that has the highest peak in the area. Jen called an Uber.  I didn’t want to hike, but I wanted to explore Holyrood, the Queen’s mansion which sat beneath the Arthur’s seat. However, our Uber driver offered to drive us to the top of Arthur’s seat.  Jen explained, that she wanted to hike to the top.  His response? “Oh, you like to hike?  Great, I’ll drive you to the top.”  We had to beg for him to stop about half way up the hillside.  Needless to say, I was now going to hike withe Jen but I was able to watch some cool hawks that would hover for a bit before dive bombing their prey.
  6. So J,K. Rowling began writing her Harry Potter books in a cafe in the Old Town of Edinburgh.  I could see how the streets inspired the feel of the books.
  7. There are little alleyways that the call a Close.  It’s typically a narrow passageway with steps.  But along the passageways there are bars, stores, apartments.  Everywhere you look there are nooks and crannies.  20180725_192032
  8. I don’t see a lot of BBQ flavored “crisps.”  But there’s plenty of steak flavor.  It’s one of those tastes that seems good at first but after a few, it’s disgusting.20180724_211542
  9. We can’t say that we love the food, but the food is definitely fresh.  It’s bland, but not processed.

The Home of Golf

July 20, 2018

The first full day began with the fire alarm going off in the hotel.  Most people’s first reaction would by “Oh no!  A fire.”  Mine?  “Oh no! She’s awake.”  As frequent readers will note, when Jen is awake, everyone is awake.  And sure enough, I slightly opened my eyes to see Jen panicking looking around at how she was going to grab her stuff and flee the burning hotel.  It wasn’t burning and it was a brief false alarm.  But we were up and it was time to head towards the home of golf, St.  Andrews.

St. Andrews is where the first golf course was sculpted out of the land by Tom Morris.  The land is referred to as “links land” which is the land linking the sandy/rocky coast with the usable and fertile farm land.   My expectations for St. Andrews was completely upended upon arrival.

  1.  I was expecting a posh, off limits, aristocratic type atmosphere in line with our members only golf clubs in the U.S.  Instead, I was shocked to find a wide open, easily accessible environment.  The famous bridge on the 18th hole of the Old Course was just steps away from a low railing that could easily be stepped over.  After golfers would tee off, spectators could run over to the bride for photo ops. 20180720_115332.jpg
  2. We could casually stroll across the fairways of the 18th and 1st holes to get to the clubhouse where we had prearranged tour.
  3. We learned that the famous running scene from Chariots of Fire was filmed on the beach just off of St. Andrews.
  4. There are numerous courses, including a 9 hole course, with completely reasonable green fees.  The courses are closed on Sundays and the area generally turns into a large park.
  5. A cement path cuts through the 18th and 1st holes so that the townspeople can access the beach.
  6. Ladies had their own section of St. Andrews back in the 1860’s called the Himaylayas.  It’s a section right off of the Old Course that is for putting.  Jen and I played for only 3 pounds per person (That’s about $7.00 total).  We were given a putter and ball.  We would “tee” up the ball by a arrow pointing to a pin placement.  The 10-20 yard putt would require navigating rolling terrain.  We giggled and had a blast even though the wind was whipping rain in off of the North Sea. 20180720_133038.jpg
  7. The town of St. Andrews reminded me a ski resort with the streets dotted with golf shops and taverns.  Instead of skis, people walked around with golf bags and clubs.  20180720_112338.jpg
  8. We hit the oldest golf shops and found that everything was priced so reasonably.  Never once did I feel like we were being gouged even though we were in the Mecca of Golf.  One shop made custom made hickory golf clubs.  I was impressed by the young woman who worked behind the counter and her knowledge of mashie niblicks and jiggers.  Here Jen is holding a “spoon.” 20180720_123334.jpg
  9. The clubhouse was open to the public and we went to the garden roof top.  Scotland is an environmentally conscious country and believe in sourcing their own food.  We discovered the roof top herb garden in which the restaurant grows their own herbs.
  10. By and far, St. Andrews captured my heart.  It’s laid back and welcoming approach left me wanting to come back and play.  Because yes, even a hacker like me can get a tee time on the Old Course.
  11. The best analogy I can think of is Wrigley Field.  Imagine being able to stroll into Wrigley field any time of the day to watch a game.  Between innings you could go onto the field to take some photos by the ivy wall. Or you could pitch in the bullpen or takes some swings in the batting cages.  For free.  No one would stop you.  And if you wanted to play in a game, you might have to wait a day or two but you could play for a totally reasonable fee.

Getting There: Miami to Dublin

July 19, 2018

It is always a bit daunting when faced with an entire day of travel which includes a red eye. We left Miami a little before 10 PM on a 8 and 1/2 hour flight. We flew Aer Lingus, an Irish airline. Here are our quick hits:

1. Yes, the airplane cabin decor is various shades of green. Which matched the color of the ocean waters. They were a green that I would expect to see in the Caribbean.

2. Great airline. Roomy seats even in economy that actually recline back.

3. Jen’s seat had a wet spot. Perhaps the prior passenger had an accident? But with the provided blanket and pillow, she created a sufficient barrier. (I did offer to switch seats).

4. We had a choice of a hot dinner. Meat and potatoes or pasta. I chose pasta and it was surprisingly tasty. Great side salad with feta, cucumbers and tomatoes. The dessert had questionable fruit pieces buried in the chocolate mousse. Do not try to trick me into eating more fruits and vegetables this way.

5. The Dublin airport was very difficult to find info for our connecting flight to Glasgow. We had a 4 hour layover so it was apparently too early to post the gate info.

6. Not a lot of female travelers. We hung out at the airport lounge and were the only women. All the men were very nicely dressed. Business casual if you will. We did not see that sloppy looking guy in basketball shorts and a tshirt.

7. The lounge is fantastic. One of the perks of our credit card is free lounge access.

8. The food display looked much better than the taste. I’m a big fan of cheese and crackers but I think I was duped into eating a Communion cracker.

9. I was a bit surprised that the signs at the Dublin airport were in English and Gaelic. I sorta thought Gaelic was a dying language. Glad to see that it is not.

10. My first impression of the Irish are that they are a very serious people. I guess I had imagined big personalities, but I’m discovering a polite yet dry personality. Maybe it’s too early for Guiness?

11. Most obvious clue I’m not in the US anymore? I don’t see any baseball fields when the plane is on its final approach.